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Climbing Mera Peak : Through an Eye of Sherpa Guide

Posted On : January 3, 2017


Kipa Sherpa During Mera Peak Climbing Trip


For those who are not familiar with Mera Peak, please let me introduce you the highest trekking peak in Nepal, standing tall at an altitude of 6461m above sea level. Mera Peak is at Everest region or commonly known as Khumbu region and me myself being Sherpa and belonging from same region, leading this Mera Peak Climbing adventure was like going back home. Contemplating my childhood memories, I used to hold my dad’s hand and follow him everywhere around the village. So, whenever I got an opportunity to lead a trek or peak climbing adventure, I always get flashback of those memories and I try to guide/take care of my clients in the same passion.


It was a pleasant autumn day; I met my clients at the hotel they stayed at. After meeting and greetings, I ensured everything from gears and equipment to other arrangements are ready. On 24th of October 2016 to be exact we flew to Lukla airstrip. They were little frightened while taking off, but after convincing them there is nothing to worry about, weather is absolutely fine and saying this is my infinite time, they I guess enjoyed the flight and stunning aerial views of snow capped Himalayas. At Lukla, two of my porter friends joined our team. After preparing the luggage, loads and having our morning meal, we started our Mera peak climbing adventure towards Chutanga which was our first night stop. It is the classical route with ample acclimatization points that takes us through Zatra La Pass.


Further walking through the small river stream, waterfalls, wooden bridges, we stay overnight at numerous locally owned tea houses. This part of the Mera Peak climbing route has not so developed and facilitating lodges like on popular trails, however they offer standard accommodation and meals that helps us keep going towards our destination. Due to remote geographical location and extreme weather conditions during winter, most of the local people settle at lower altitudes. The life is not easy here, but I know that facing the challenges kept in front of us with dedication and passion is what makes us stronger.


It was the eighth day of our trip; we arrived at the small settlement known as Khare from where Mera Peak starts to appear significantly closer along with other neighboring peaks. We setup camp at Khare, also an acclimatization point where I gave instructions to use peak climbing gears along with techniques to climb, descend and be safe. My clients had previous climbing experience, so they grabbed the techniques in an instant. We all were very confident that we can make it on top in coming days.

The most challenging day finally arrives after we leave behind hard crossed Mera La Pass, take rest at high camp and push for the final summit. I just took rest and didn’t slept that night as I am incharge and need to ensure everything, everyone gets proper sleep and rest. When it was 2.30 am in the very early morning, I awakened my team to get ready. Even though the weather was predicted to be fine, it was a foggy morning with less visibility and slight snowfall. Therefore, I was in the look and go situation. After waiting for an hour, it was less windy, and we started tying rope. We were all thankful that weather slowly started to clear and it was the best time of the trip with golden rays of sun gradually turns the snow white mountain into red. I fixed the rope and others followed me till the summit. Everyone was very happy and the smile on my client’s face is the thing that gives me ultimate satisfaction.


We took plenty of photos; the Himalayan panoramas from Everest to Lhotse and Cho Oyu to Makalu were simply out of this world. Every time I come here, it feels like I am seeing something new and fills my heart with positive energies. Mission accomplished! I whispered.


Now it was the time to return through the route from where it all began. There is always a high chance of ankle sprain while descending down the trail and reminding this thing continuously to rest of my team, we gradually trek through the same route via Khare to Kothe, Lukla and finally back to Kathmandu.


Next day upon arrival at Kathmandu our company Icicles Adventure organized the farewell dinner and I had great time with our Mera Peak Climbing group,i.e clients, Hari Sir, Indira Madam and of course me myself. After successful completion of this trip, Hari Sir informed me that I need to get ready for my next trip within a week.


This is how I saw the Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal through my eyes this year. And now looking forward to see many more in coming days…