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Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass – 23 days

Trip Overview

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass is an extreme adventure in Nepal where you will be climbing two of the popular peaks while crossing the technical pass of Amphu Laptsa.  This extreme adventure allows us to immerse and explore its diversity in activities like trekking across dense forest, panoramic views of mountains, peak climbing, hanging in rope and crossing challenging crevasses. Mera and Island Peak both are popular climbing trekking peaks in Nepal individually but very few have attempted at a single go. This Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass is challenging and long trip for those experienced trekkers who are looking for extreme adventures around foothills of Himalayas.

After your arrival at Kathmandu and completion of necessary trip preparation, we begin our Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass adventure by boarding a flight to Lukla air strip. We walk across the beautiful forests, traditional settlements, hills and finally reach at Chutang. Here we spend two nights and hike to nearby hills for proper acclimatization so that our body adapts with high altitude avoiding altitude sickness. Ahead us there is a big Zatra La pass usually covered with snow where we use climbing gears and ropes. Even if there is no snow, it is quite a challenging ascend at altitude of 4600m. We will then descend at Thuli Kharka, a big pasture land for overnight stay. Then we follow Hinku River and descend through dense rhododendron forests, taking care of loose boulders to Thnagnag via Kothe. The lateral moraines of Dig glaciers to Dig kharka along with steep climbs leads us to camping point Khare. Khare is another acclimatization point for us, here our trip leader will give instructions on how to use climbing gears and climbing techniques. The following two days would be much of ascending towards Mera High Camp via Mera base camp. At 12th day of this extreme adventure in Nepal, we summit Mera Peak at an altitude of 6461m and descend to Kongma Dingma.

After summiting of Mera Peak, one day is allocated for contingencies. Leaving behind Seto Pokhari and Amphu Laptsa High Camp, we follow Hongu Glacier, religious site of Panch Pokhari to get set for next day’s challenging Amphu Laptsa pass and descend on moraine to camp beside Imja Glacier while entering Imja Valley. We will then aim to summit another popular climbing peak for next couple of days as we trek to Island peak High camp, summit Island Peak and trek to Island peak base camp. Usually push for summit begins before sunrise very early at 2 am or 3 am in the morning. The views from summit are so spectacular that you would just enjoy the panorama of mountains. We will then trek to tengboche and feel a bit better after fall in altitude. Descend continues through popular everest trail of Dingboche, Pangboche and finally at Tengboche. At tengboche, we can participate in daily rituals at ancient monastery and get some traditional insights of local Sherpas. Finally extreme adventure of Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass comes to an end as we trek down to Namche Bazar, Lukla and fly back to Kathmandu.

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass adventure is recommended for those trekkers and hikers who have previous high altitude trekking experience. Your safety is a major concern for us and we ensure that you will get the most out of this adventure with all the safety precautions. Best season to join Mera Peak and Island peak climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass adventure would be during months of mid September to mid October and mid March to mid April. Join extreme adventure with Icicles Adventure Treks to make this adventurous, challenging and most rewarding trip a huge success and an unforgettable experience.

Price Includes

  • Airport and hotel transfers as per itinerary in private vehicle
  • Three nights twin sharing accommodation in 3-star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu including temple/monument entry fees and private vehicle
  • Round trip flight Kathmandu – Lukla– Kathmandu including departure taxes
  • Full board meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Best available accommodation in local mountain lodges during the trek and tented accommodation during climbing; we provide rooms with private bathrooms and hot shower at Namche and Lukla
  • Staff– one professional, knowledgeable and friendly English speaking climbing leader, assistant guide (6 trekkers : 1 assistant guide)  and necessary porters and helpers including their food, accommodation, salary, equipment, transportation, and insurance
  • Climbing equipment (Climbing Rope, Ice Screw, Snow Bar, Ice Hammer
  • Climbing guide from base camp for the summit and back to base camp
  • Duffle bag, sleeping bag, and down jacket for use during the trek and climb
  • Icicles Adventure T – shirt, trekking map and trip achievement certificate
  • First aid medical kit
  • Mera peak climbing Permit, National Park Permits (Please bring 2 passport size photos for permit)
  • All government taxes & office service charge

Price Excludes

  • Nepal visa arrangement (more on Nepal Visa Information)
  • International airfares
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Added night/s accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, delayed departure, early return from mountain (due to any cause) than the programmed itinerary
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from mountain than the programmed itinerary)
  • Alcoholic drinks and cold drinks
  • Personal expenses such as phone calls, bar bills, laundry, battery recharge, bottled or boiled water, hot shower, extra porters, etc
  • Personal trekking and climbing gears
  • Tips for guides and porters (tip is expected but not mandatory)

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass – 23 days Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

Welcome to Kathmandu! As you land at Kathmandu airport (Tribhuvan International Airport), reclaim your luggage and finish your custom formalities (visa, etc.) and get to the airport waiting terminal, you will find our representative waiting to greet you. He/she will be holding Icicles Adventure Treks & Tours signboard with your name. You will be then transferred to your respective hotel in our private vehicle. You can rest at your hotel to recover from jet lag or if you have plenty of time you can visit Thamel market for any lacking gears for your Mera Peak Climbing Trip. Accommodation: City Hotel.

Day 02: Kathmandu sightseeing and trek preparation

After breakfast we start a guided tour to several medieval and spiritual sites in Kathmandu which are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambhunath) and Buddhists shrine (BouddhaNath) which is one of the large Stupas in the world. Later after sightseeing program, we will introduce you with your trekking guide and have a small pre-trip meeting. You can also take an opportunity to hire/buy any last minute trekking equipment or bargain for your souvenirs at the many stores. You are advised to pack your things and be set up for your actual Island Peak Climbing adventure that will begin the next day. Accommodation: City Hotel, Included Meal: B

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800 m/9,184 ft) and trek to Chutanga (3450m/10004ft)

Wake up at dawn and be ready for the adventure. We escort you to domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport for an early morning flight. After an adventurous 35 minutes flight above the array of beautiful green and white mountains, we arrive at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), an entry town from where your trek begins. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world concluding in a dramatic landing site on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. In Lukla, we meet our additional crew members and do some packing and arrangements. You will walk through the jungle down to Surke then a bit ahead you will have lunch near Pakhapani or so. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, hills and gradually reaches Chutang for the first overnight rest in mountain. Walking time 2-3hrs, Accommodation: Basic tehouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 04: Acclimatization at Chutanga- takes acclimatization hike

Today is our first acclimatization day. To let time for our body to adapt with the altitude we spend two nights at Chutanga. For acclimatization, we are supposed to trek to higher elevations nearby. Tomorrow we will cross the big pass Zatra-la, so we hike today to neary by hills for acclimatization. Accommodation: Basic tehouse.  Included Meals: B, L, D


Day 05: Chutang to Thuli Kharka (4300m/14104ft) via Zatra La (4600m)

We start after brealfast on 1300m ascent to the Zatwra then a short traverse to the Zatwra La pass proper. As you are still not acclimatized it is generally a hard walk, even if the conditions are good (no snow). If there is snow, Zatrwa La can get considerable amount of snow and you might need to use crampons and ice axes as well as install fixed ropes to safeguard porters. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Thuli Kharka (big pasture) where there are several basic lodges. Walking time 6-7 hrs. Accommodation: Basic tehouse.  Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 06: Thuli Kharka to Kothe (4182m/13716 ft)

A sunny morning gives us great views of the pass we left behind. We traverse three ridges until we find ourselves high above the Hinku river. With a bit of luck you can then see the impressive south face of Mera Peak. From here a long steep descent on a narrow trail drops steeply through the rhododendrons and forests of moss-covered pines to the edge of the huge scar left by the devastating bust of a natural dam above Tagnag in 1998. From there the trail climbs gradually following the river and crossing a broad ridge of mixed forest you reach a sandy boulder choked area known as Khote. Walking time 5-6 hrs. Accommodation: Basic tehouse.  Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 07: Kothe to Thangnag (4356m/14288ft)

Our trail continues alongside the riverbed through thick rhododendron forest. Care has to be taken, as there are many loose boulders on this section. We continue on the east bank of the Hinku Drangka. Just above the confluence of the Hinku and Sanu Drangka rivers the valley widens providing excellent views of Kusum Kangguru (6369m) and Peak 43 (6769m), at the head of the valley. The trail continues up the left bank to Tangnag (4366m), a summer settlement that has grown into a small hamlet of teashops. Walking time 5-6 hrs. Accommodation: Basic tehouse.  Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 08: Thagnag to Khare (5,000m/16,400ft)

Today we head towards Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to your camping spot at Khare. The camping experience at Khare is something that would cherish you throughout your life. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from Khare. Walking time 3-4 hrs. Accommodation: Basic tehouse.  Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 09: Acclimatization at Khare- Ice climbing practice

Today after a breakfast, you will prepare your gear for ice climbing just above the Khare and need to walk couple of hrs from where there are good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain. You will get some time for practicing few hours of Ice climbing. Your leader will teach you and instruct you about using the climbing gears and climbing techniques. After few hours of practicing at the glacier, you stroll back to camp and after final preparation of our equipment and packing of our mountain bags you will have overnight rest in the camp in Khare. Accommodation: Basic tehouse.  Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 10: Khare to Mera Peak Base Camp (5,350m/17,552ft)

Very short trek in slow speed to allow much acclimatization you will make your way to Mera Base Camp. First climbing to the crest of the moraine above Khare and then up a steep slope of snow to reach a boulder strewn bowl below the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier. Reaching the pass Mera La (5,415m/17,766ft) allows us to see spectacular views; we then descend 100m (328ft) towards the Hongu side and set up base camp in the moraine below the ice and we overnight in Mera Base Camp. Walking time 3-4 hrs. Accommodation: camping  Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 11: Climb to Mera High camp (5,750m/18,865ft)

We put on your crampons on again. You climb back up to the pass at Mera La then head up the glacier towards a rocky outcrop where we set the most spectacular high camp. Way to Mera High Camp can sometimes be hazardous, especially if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. From the high camp, the mountain the views are incredible. Kangchenjunga is visible to the east above the ridge of Chamlang; the ice spire of Baruntse is at the left of Makalu. Between Baruntse and the beautiful twin peaks of Ama Dablam, you will see Nuptse, Lhotse’s south face and Lhotse Shar. Over the ridge stands the summit of Everest piercing the skyline. This evening we overnight in Mera High Camp. Walking time 4-5 hrs, Accommodation: Camping, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 12: Summit Mea Peak ( (6,461m/21,1907ft)and descend to Kongma Dingma (4850m/15908ft)

Our Sherpa will wake you up at about 2 am with hot tea and we all will have a high energy meal before starting the summit ascent of Mera Peak. Starting through the main glacier, crossing to the south side we approach the snow hump-back ridge. This part of the route is not technical but 30 degree slopes are still tough. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and then you swing diagonally westward. The summit comes back into view and you are on the level summit ridge. At the foot of the final steep ascent you will attach to a fixed rope laid by your guide and use your ice axe and a jumar to climb the final 30 metre 55 degree pitch to reach Mera Peak’s summit. A spectacular panorama greets you with clear views over to Everest. Once you’ve had chance to take this all in and congratulate yourself on an amazing achievement, and then we will descend into the Hongu Valley, down to Kongma Dingma. Walking time 6-7 hrs. Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 13: A contingency day

This day we use to keep as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of us have not acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If we are successful in making the summit on day 14, we use this day for another Ice climbing day or spent one more night at village of Lukla. Overnight in tent. Accommodation: Camping, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 14: Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari (5000m/16400 ft)

We continue to trek through the Hongu Valley, a very high and remote valley with no inhabitants. Real wilderness, real remoteness can be felt in this beautiful valley. Huge flanks of Mt. Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The environment is remarkably compassionate, especially considering we are actually heading directly into the very epicenter of the highest group of mountains in the world. The valley floor remains broad and straight, only gradually rising to the blind alley of peaks ahead. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards are none other than Everest and Lhotse. We climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari and camp there. Seto Pokhari means White Lake, the water in the lake is white may be due to ice conditions. Overnight in tented camp at Seto Pokhari. Walking time 3-4 hrs, Accommodation: Camping, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 15: Seto Pokhara to Amphu Laptsa High Camp (5400m/17712 ft)

We trek through one of the remotest part of the Himalaya today. We rarely meet any trekkers if its not a high tourist season. We enjoy and experience the wilderness of the Honku Valley We walk through the high altitude trail from Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha high Camp. On the trail today, on our right is Mt. Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces. Passing beneath the giant west face of Chamlang we follow the Hongu Khola and finally the Hongu Glacier to the religious site of Panch Pokhri (five lakes). Today we trek to Amph Labsta’s south side Base Camp and come face to face with this gigantic and technical obstacle that we must cross tomorrow along with 360 degree view of great mountains. Overnight campaing at Amphu Lapcha high camp. Walking time 4-5 hrs, Accommodation: Camping, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 16: Cross Amphu Laptsa (5845m/19172 ft) and trek to Imja Valley

Today, we have a real day of challenge ahead of us. On the South side the pass is a interesting traverse of scree slopes and layered glacier wall that we have to ascend. We trek along a fantastic icefall to the crest of the pass at 5850m. Here we have stunning views of Island Peak, Lhotse and Nuptse looming over the Imja Valley. The descent down to the valley is steep with a section that we negotiate by abseiling; looking back it will be quite an awesome feeling. We carry on descending on moraine to camp beside the Imaja Glacier and enter the Imja Valley where we spend the night. Walking time 7-8 hrs, Accommodation: Camping, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 17: Trek to Island Peak High Camp (5,600m/18,372ft)

It’s the easy gradual trail up to Island Peak Base Camp. We cross a river and follow the valley for approx 3 hour.  Passing beneath the magnificent south face of Lhotse. Base camp is by the side of the Imja glacier, below steep grassy slopes which mark the start of the climb on Island Peak. From Island Peak Base Camp the trail is moderately steep. First, we climb south then turn east to the contour of the valley. We then walk on a zigzag path below the southern flank of Lhotse Glacier moraine. We continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. At southeast, we see the Amphu Labtsa route. A network route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a spacious valley (Pareshaya Gyab) nearby the southwest side of Island Peak where we will set our tents. After a brief rest, our climbing guide will instruct you the methods of using climbing equipments and some technical climbing skills. Along with practical knowledge on using climbing gears like ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc., you will also learn using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak Climbing, we strongly believe that some training will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit safely together with a fun experience. Walking time: 4-5 hrs. Accommodation: Camping. Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 18: Summit Island Peak (6189 meters) and trek to Island peak base camp

The push for the summit starts very early in the morning, mostly it starts before 3 a.m. in the morning. The climbing guide will fix all the safety lines wherever necessary and will be close taking care of you. A steep long ascent finally ends at the top and after a short stay at the top to enjoy the panorama of mountains; we climb down to Island Peak Base Camp for overnight. Walking time 7-8 hrs, Accommodation: Camping, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 19: Trek to Tengboche (3,860m/12,660ft)

Today, we must feel a lot better with gradual drop in altitude. Breathing is much easier. From Island Peak Base camp, we walk occasionally through some glacier moraines until we reach the village of Chukung. Then following the river and the moraine we descend to Dingboche. Notice the change in shape of Amadablam today as we are too near of it. Under the shadows of Ama Dablam the valley narrows, we cross a suspension bridge and reach Shomare and continue to Pangboche. We have a lunch and relax time at Pangboche. We continue toward Tengboche. We The trail to Tengboche is through beautiful rhododendron forest. The trail until Deboche from Pangboche is popular as ‘Musk Deer Way’ as you can spot musk deer this part of the way. Watch for the other Himalayan faunas too. Today is a lovely trek through dense vegetation after many days of trek through the barren himalayan landscape. Upon reaching Tengboche, you may visit the Tengboche Monastery and participate in the daily ceremony there. Walking Time: 5-6 hrs. Accommodation: Local Lodge, Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 20: Trek to Namche Bazzar (3,440 m/11,283 ft)

The walk today is in the shadow of the pine trees and rhododendrons forest that line these well-trodden trails. Watch out for faunas such as mountain goats, snow leopards, colorful pheasants, etc too in these trails. After several ups and downs we come near by the army camp at Namche Bazzar from where we take last look at the Everest which will be no more visible ahead on this back trek. On reaching our lodge at Namche, we take a nice hot shower that will help relief our tired muscles. You will have a very relaxed sleep in one of the room with attached bathroom in Namche Bazaar. Tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu, Namche Bazzar is centre of Everest region and has plenty of lodges, tea shops, souvenir shops, money exchangers, government offices, ATMs, Internet cafes, restaurants, bakeries, etc. You can also even enjoy colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. You can visit Visitor Center near the headquarter of the Sagarmatha National Park where you can observe an assortment of things allied to the first Everest ascenders, Sherpa culture and learn about the various flora and fauna of the Sagarmatha National Park. Or you may just opt to relax in your room as you are just back from several very strenuous days. We chose your stay at Namche Bazzar today as its a beautiful Sherpa town to observe, roam around and relax. If you like to trek more, you may opt to trek down to Monjo to make your next days trek short. Walking Time: 3 hrs. Accommodation: Local Lodge. Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 21: Namche Bazaar – Lukla

Today the trail goes steeply downwards, so we need to walk carefully having control over our shaky legs. After again multiple crossings over the prayer flags festooned suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail becomes more level and natural. The more we trek downwards the more we feel easier to breathe as the air gets denser. Any remaining sore throats and colds will be gone by today. Although we are following the same route down, we feel completely different views with open plains, rhododendron and pine forests, and in the distance snow covered peaks. We inspect the impressive Sherpa and their Buddhist culture advised by the ancient monasteries, chhortens, mani stones, and prayer flags swathed in Sherpa homes, villages, bridges and the trails which are believed to spread goodwill and compassion in the space with their fluttering. Upon arrival in Lukla, stretch those sore legs and summon up the experiences of the last couple of weeks. We celebrate our successful and safe trek with the crew. Walking Time: 6–7 hrs. Accommodation: Local Lodge. Included Meals: B, L, D

Day 22: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

A morning flight drops us in Kathmandu. Flights to Kathmandu are usually scheduled for morning because wind can create problem to fly the aircraft after noon. But sometimes the flight can be delayed and even canceled due to bad weather and other reasons that are beyond our control. You will be transferred to hotel in Kathmandu after arrival in Kathmandu. You can rest in your hotel, could do some last minute shopping and packing, or stroll around Thamel. Flying Time: 35 minutes, Accommodation: City Hotel. Included Meal: B, D

Day 23: Final Departure

Today your Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass trip comes to an end. If you have more time you can do some shopping or sightseeing. Approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight a representative from Icicles Adventure Treks & Tours will take you to the airport for your flight back home. We are sure our service and the Nepal Himalayas has captivated you to come back again! Included Meals: B

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Trip at a Glance
Max. Altitude : 6,461m Group Size : 2 to 15 Best Season : March to May and September to November Activities : Trekking and clibming Transportation : Private Vehicle Starts From : Kathmandu Ends In : kathmandu