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A Complete Guide to Mera Peak Climbing

A Complete Guide to Mera Peak Climbing
  • 18-Jun-2021
  • 0

Standing at the elevation of 6461m/21197ft above sea level, Mera Peak is one of the most climbed and busy trekking peaks of Nepal that lies south of mighty Everest in Makalu Barun National Park with an exhilarating climbing involvement with an awe-inspiring view of the majestic Himalayas ranges.

You need not be an expert climber having lots of technical climbing experiences for summiting this peak. Instead, you require a basic level of mountaineering skills, the experience of some high elevated treks, passion, and confidence. Follow our professional summit experts and complete this strenuous, is a non-technical adventurous climb.

Standing at the top of Mera Peak, you will be amazed by the 360-degree panoramic views of entire mountains on all sides. Catching the view of five of the six tallest peaks of the world is truly awe. Including Mt. Everest (8848.86m) you will observe Mt Kanchenjunga (8586m), Mt Lhotse (8516m), Mt Makalu (8443m), and Cho Oyu (8188m) from the Mera top which position 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th respectively in a list of world tallest peaks.

A high elevated trekking journey to Mera Peak in the Everest region of Nepal requires 18 days in total to be completed. It includes your arrival and departure dates as well. After flying Lukla from Kathmandu, the itinerary follows the route of pristine Hinku valley leaving small humble teahouses, long and wide yak pastures, wild forests, an alpine environment, glaciers, glacial rivers and cross the Zatra La (4600m/15000ft).

Follow the route leading to Khare now for few days. Have some acclimatization there and practice for an actual summit with our professional mountaineers. In three days’ glacier travel, you will see spectacular mountains, a river valley, and a typical day in the high Himalayas.

Mera Peak Climbing: Trip FACTS

Become acquainted with the Mera Peak Climbing facts including duration, maximum elevation, total distance, the best time to climb, difficulty level, accommodation, and so forth.

Fact Info Fact Content
Trip Duration 18 Days
Maximum Elevation 6461m/21197ft above the sea level
Total Distance (Trek and Climb) 125 Kilometers/77.6 Miles
Best Season Late March to May and Mid-September to November
Trip Begins from Kathmandu
Trip Ends At Kathmandu
Climbing Difficulty Challenging to Adventurous
Accommodation In Kathmandu: Hotel
In Trek: Teahouses
In Climbing: Tented Camps
Required Permits Mera Peak Climbing Permit, Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit, and Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit
Recommended Route Kathmandu-Lukla- Chutanga- Zatra La-Thuli Kharaka- Kothe- Thangnag-Khare-Mera Baase Camp-Mera High Camp-Mera Summit-Kothe-Thuli Kharka-Lukla-Kathmandu

Mera Peak Climbing: Highlights

  • Summit Mera Peak (6461m/21197ft) the utmost trekking peak of Nepal.
  • Close-up outlook of the 5 of the 6 tallest peaks of the planet- Mt. Everest(8848.86m/29031ft), Kanchenjunga(8586m/28169ft), Lhotse(8516m/27939ft), Makalu(8463m/27766ft), and Cho Oyu(8188m/26863ft)
  • Non-technical climb, ideal for novice climbers wishing to climb their first mountain in Nepal.
  • The climbing route is straightforward.
  • Exotic flora and fauna of Everest region. Pristine glacial lakes, Hinku valley, waterfalls, yak pastures, rhododendron backwoods, and glacial rivers.
  • Pocket-sized small settlements, less crowded routes with awe-inspiring views.
  • Surrounded by the high pinnacles, immerse yourself in the remote culture and lifestyles.
  • Sufficient acclimatizing days, pre-climbing training before the summit push.
  • The expedition was led by an experienced Sherpa climber.
  • Pass beautiful Sherpa villages of Paiya, Thaknak, and Khare following off the beaten paths.
  • Magnificent display from the top unfolds 360° sight of throughout snowy kingdom mostly above 6000m together with awe-inspiring mountains of the region.

Is this trip suitable for me?

  • Have good physical fitness as you are climbing under some challenging circumstances including thin oxygenated lands, snowy glaciers, extreme cold, and strong winds.
  • Eager to walk above 6000m, totally silver snowy peaks encountering some crevasses, rocky ridges, and stony boulders. A high-elevated trekking experience is recommended.
  • Need to be familiar with crampons, ice ax, walking roped-up. Previous climbing experience is advantageous but not mandatory.
  • Maximum elevated to reach is 6461m crossing some mountain passes, rivers, and glaciers.
  • Able to walk 6-7 hours a day. However, on summit day, need to push 8-9 hours.
  • The amenities on the way are basic ones, you will have to use squatty toilets somewhere.
  • Persons with legs, knees, lungs, heart problems are not recommended to climb this adventure.

Mera Peak Climbing: When to Climb?

all-about-mera-peak-cl...As per our expert climbers and their previous experiences, the perfect month for Mera Peak climbing is throughout spring (March to May) and autumn (September to December). These months have favorable weather conditions, temperatures are somehow stable and sceneries are super crystal. Climbers can enjoy unobstructed views of mighty peaks, vales, and landscapes.

Amid all, spring brings flower blossoms in the entire hills that look as if painted artificially. The valleys are green, hills are colorful and peaks are snowy. Exotic wildlife seems to enjoy in the backwoods, butterflies over those flowers, and birds seem busy making new nests. Next, the view from Everest to Kanchenjunga looks splendid. From late April, there will be fewer chances of snowfall even in the high elevations making the journey even comfortable.

The autumn on the other hand offers near-best weather conditions. Visibility is even spectacular than in the spring months. Heavy waterfalls in the monsoon (June to August) sweep every dust particle from the atmosphere and nature.

Hence, the popular trekking destinations as Everest Base Camp Trek, Annapurna Base Camp Trek, and Annapurna Circuit Trek are crowded by the trekkers. Likewise, the Mera Peak trail also gets a bit busier. October and November months are recommended.

Winter and monsoon periods are not recommended. In monsoon, you will much be suffered by heavy precipitation, landslide, floods leech and slippery roads. Likewise heavy snowfall, chill atmosphere, freezing climate may affect your trip in the winter months.

Mera Peak Climbing: Recommended Brief Itinerary

Days Activities Maximum Elevation Duration Overnight
One Fly Kathmandu to Lukla and Trek to Chutanga 3475m/11398ft (Chutunga) 3-4 hrs. Teahouse
Two Acclimatization at Chutanga - - Teahouse
Three Trek to Thuli Kharka via Zatra La 4610m /15124ft (Zatra La) 6-7 hrs. Teahouse
Four Trek to Kothe 4182m/13716 ft (Kothe) 6-7 hrs. Teahouse
Five Trek to Thangnag 4356m/14288ft (Thangnag) 5-6 hrs. Teahouse
Six Trek to Khare 5,000m/16,400ft (Khare)  3-4 hrs. Teahouse
Seven Acclimatization at Khare - Ice climbing practice - - Teahouse
Eight Ascend to Mera Base Camp 5,350m/17,552ft (Mera Base Camp) 3-4 hrs. Tented Camp
Nine Ascend to Mera High Camp 5,750m/18,865ft (Mera High Camp) 4-5 hrs. Tented Camp
Ten Summit Mera Peak and descend to Khare 6,461m/21,1907ft (Mera Summit) 8-9 hrs. Teahouse
Eleven A Contingency Day - - -
Twelve Trek to Kothe 5,000m/16,400ft (Khare)    4-5 hrs. Teahouse
Thirteen Trek to Thuli Kharka 4182m/13716ft (Kothe) 5-6 hrs. Teahouse
Fourteen Trek to Lukla 4300m/14104ft (Thuli Kharka) 6-7 hrs. Local Lodge
Fifteen Fly back to Kathmandu 2860m/9383ft (Lukla) 35 minutes flight Hotel

Mera Peak Climbing: Permits and their Costs

You need three permits for Mera Peak climbing:

  • Mera Peak Climbing Permit
  • Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit
  • Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit

Although individual trekkers can obtain those permits for trekking, only government-registered trekking or mountaineering agencies can get climbing permits. So, it is mandatory to book an expedition with authorized agencies to obtain the aforementioned permits.

As separable holidaymakers can get the permits for trekking, government-registered trekking agencies can only get climbing permits. Therefore, you need to book this climbing with a registered agent to get the climbing permit.

The cost of the Mera Peak Climbing permit depends upon the season. It costs;

  • US$ 250 for spring (March to May)
  • US$ 125 for autumn (September to November)
  • US$ 70 for off-seasons (December to February and June to August)

For the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit, you need to be at Lukla. You should pay NPR 2000 for the permit at the rural municipality office that lies at the edge of the township.

Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit can be gotten from the office of Nepal Board Office in Kathmandu. Otherwise, you will obtain it at Kothe as well. You need to pay NPR 3000 for this permit. However, for the SAARC citizens, it costs only a half (NPR 1500 only). A copy of my passport and a photo is needed for this permit.

In case, you wish to trek from Jiri following the footprint of legendry Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary, you will be required to pay for the Gaurishankhar Conservation Area Project Entry Permit. It costs NPR 3000 and can be obtained from the office of Nepal Tourism Board Kathmandu.

You need not stay in the queue for these permits. Your guides or trekking agencies arrange all the permits for you.

Mera Peak Climbing: Difficulty

Mera Peak Climbing is not a technical journey that leads above 6400m above sea level with plenty of acclimatization days and training on the way. Still, you need sound stamina for the adventure as you will be trekking for 5-7 hours a day on average in high Himalayan foothills on sequential days. Thus, one needs a lot of stamina and endurance to succeed climbing with a small backpack on your back.

Prior training, trekking experience, a mental determination is crucial for the Mera Peak climb. If you are already walked above 3000m above sea level, you will know much about the Himalayas. While climbing, you need to use the climbing equipment appropriately. Don’t worry! Our professional climbing guide will train you how to use those gears and equipment before leaving the village of Khare.

Several factors contribute to making your trip to Mera Peak difficult. Most common are listed below with appropriate solutions.

Trek/Climb Distance and Duration

Whichever route you choose, the minimum distance to cover is around 125 kilometers during your Mera Peak climbing. The trail and climb are rough, steep, and snowy (mostly above the village of Khare). To cover such a long distance in rocky steep routes is certainly somehow strenuous. Again, more or less, it takes 18 plus days to cover this distance. The average day duration is 5-7 hours in high elevations mostly 3000m above sea level.

Unrelatedly of the paths you choose, the minutest distance you will be covering in the Mera Peak climbing is around 125 km that is 77.6 miles. The trails and ascends of the Mera Peak climbing are rough, steep, and snowy in some sections. To cover such a long distance in such difficult trails is definitely a stress-free task. Thus, the distance is one of the difficulties for Mera Peak climbing.

Route

A couple of routes are available to ascend Mera Peak. One of them runs via Lukla-Paiya-Thongnak-Khare-Base Camp-High-Camp-Mera-Peak-Khare- Thongnak-Paiya and Lukla. This is a longer one.

Another route passes via Lukla-Chutanga-Zatra La-Thuli Kharaka- Kothe-Thangnag-Khare-Mera Baase Camp-Mera High Camp-Mera Summit-Kothe-Thuli Kharka and ultimately to Lukla.

Choosing any of the routes, you need to pass high passes, alpine backwoods, narrow paths, glacial lakes, river gorges, rocky ridges, glaciers, and cliffs. Thus trekking route can be a crucial factor making the journey to Mera Peak difficult.

Altitude Sickness

peak-climbing-in-nepal...Walking in the mountains there is always a risk of Acute Mountain Sickness. It is possible for anyone regardless of your age and fitness level especially above 3000m above sea level. Mera Peak climb begins from the lowest point at Kathmandu (1350m) to the utmost point at Mera Summit (6461m). You will experience a great change of elevation day by day.

Climbers need to walk higher elevations acclimatizing properly in the different places. If you hurried, compete, or skipped acclimatization places; there is a high possibility of Altitude Sickness.

Severe headache, dizziness, fever, fatigue, vomiting, diarrhea, upset stomach, blur vision are some of the common symptoms of Altitude Sickness. Staying hydrated, having proper acclimatization, climbing high sleeping low, maintaining own pace helps one to escape from it.

Icicles Adventure Treks has crafted customizable itineraries keeping sufficient acclimatization days with the help of experienced climbing leaders. This minimizes the risk of high elevation challenges.

Weather and Temperature

In the Himalayas, weather and temperature are always unpredictable. Expect there is a possibility to change weather rapidly within some hours. It weather worsens, the temperature drops drastically at any time. Snowfall is possible any day.

If such happen, a strenuous journey to Mera Peak climb will level up in difficulty. You need to have favorable weather conditions, warm temperatures, and snowfall or precipitation days for easy climbing. Thus, any serious modification in temperature and climate can add more difficulties while climbing.

Our experienced climbing guides lead you in favorable weather conditions only. They have years of experience in the Himalayas and take decisions accordingly.

Physical Fitness and Exercises

Last but not the least, Physical fitness of the possible mountaineer plays a vital role in making your summit to Mera Peak easy. A sound fitness level is a minimum requirement for Mera Peak. One needs to build up a good fitness level. Numerous physical exercises as a gym workout, hiking, running, cycling, swimming, walking with backpacks on stairs, etc. can boost your fitness level.

Such exercises need to get started at least 3 months before the climbing date. And in case you are someone who doesn’t prefer to do much workout, this preparation of physical wellbeing can be arduous.

Lodging and Food

Your accommodation will be in a standard hotel in Kathmandu, trekking lodges and teahouses during the trekking and tents will be provided during an expedition. In trekking, there is the availability of only basic teahouses with cozy rooms where you can relax your exhausted body. Almost all teahouse lodgings will only have shared toilet facilities.

In a teahouse, you will be staying a twin-sharing room as it is quite difficult to get a single room in the mountains. Also, you need to pay more than double to get a single room. The locals expect you to eat in the same teahouse for dinner and breakfast the next morning. Lunch is taken at the next stop.

Your tented accommodation lasts two days only; one day in Mera Base Camp and the next day in Mera High Camp. On the summit day, you will descend to Khare and will stay at the teahouse. In a tented camp, you will have a separate camp, with a 4-season sleeping bag and foam mattress. Meals will be prepared by a camping cook. Your Sherpas will help you in every nitty-gritty.

Why you should book your climb with Icicles Adventure?

Nowadays, you can see hundreds of trekking agencies in Nepal to climb Mera Peak. Not only are they, but they're also exist dozens of international agencies that run Mera Peak Climbing. Therefore, choosing an appropriate trekking agency might seem a little tricky.

Foremost, you need to go through an authorized agency that is registered with the Government of Nepal and has a valid license from government authorizations as Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN), Nepal Tourism Board (NTB), and Nepal Mountaineering Associations, etc.

Still, you may have some queries in your mind as to why are local trekking/mountaineering companies better than foreign ones? Or why should I choose a trekking agency that is associated with Nepal during my Mera Peak climbing?

Here are some reasons that justify the reasons behind choosing local agencies i.e Icicles Adventure Treks for you Mera Peak Adventure.

Experienced Local Trekking Guides and Porters

Local trekking agencies only can offer local climbing experts, trekking guides, cooks, porters, and other crew members. You will be accompanied by the exceedingly practiced guide as well as porters having an exceptional capability of circumstances management with good conducts and hospitable nature during your Mera Peak climb.

Reasonable Price

Locally based agencies as Icicles Adventure offer a reasonable price for each traveler. They try to make their treks/climbing adventures the best possible offering affordable prices with quality services.

As they have their own staffs like guides, porters, cook, and other crew, should not extra amount for giving commission to the negotiator if you book directly to the local company.

Flexibility on Trip Itinerary

Locals are always there. You can customize the trip itinerary as per your timeframes, requirements, and suits as local organizations are flexible by nature. Mostly, international agencies have a fixed set of itineraries, to you with limited options which may lead you to some hazards ultimately. Hence, the Icicles’ operators are supple as per your wish and recommendations along with many add-in options.

Packing Checklist for Mera Peak Climbing

The checklist of most important items you should not miss to bring

The list below is a checklist of the most essential gears and sorts of equipment that you should not forget to bring with you for your Mera Peak climbing adventure

Gear and Equipment List

  • Climbing Boots
  • Crampons
  • Ascender (Jumar)
  • Descender (Figure of Eight Lock)/Super 8
  • Screw Gate/Carabiner/Karabiner
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet-UIAA Test
  • Harness
  • Trekking Pole
  • Insect Repellent   
  • Sleeping Bags
  • Prusik Rope/ Infinity Dry Rope
  • Climbing Rope
  • Survival Blankets
  • Altimeter
  • Oximeter
  • Snow Bar
  • Ice Screw
  • Braking Belay Device
  • U-Lock
  • Oxygen
  • Multi LED Headlamp and Spare Batteries
  • Slings
  • Gloves (insulating)
  • Packs and Bags
  • Durable two Duffle Bags
  • A Day Pack
  • A Small Money Bag
  • Alpine Pack

Clothes

  • Head: A warm hat that covers your ear, face mask, scarf, hat
  • Upper Body:  Shorts(both short and long sleeve) expedition weight down jacket, hard-shell jacket, soft-shell jacket, and lightweight down jacket
  • Lower Body: quick-dry shorts, soft-shell pants, down or synthetic insulated pant, underwear, thermal bottoms, hard-shell pants, light-weight trekking pants
  • Hand: Mittens, lightweight synthetic gloves
  • Foot: mountaineering boots, sandals, liner socks, thick socks, hiking shoes

Miscellaneous

  • Water bottles
  • Thermos bottle
  • Lip Balm
  • Small alarm clock
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Sun cream
  • Binoculars
  • Camera and spare USB cards
  • Pocket Knife and repair kit
  • Plastic bowl, spoon
  • Coffee mug
  • Spare Batteries for torchlight, camera, and cell phone
  • Power Bank       

Medical Supplies

  • Diamox (For Altitude Sickness)   
  • Cough and cold medicine
  • Water purification tablets
  • Anti-diarrhea pill
  • Anti-headache medication
  • Antibiotics for chest and stomach infection

Note: Please consult your doctor before buying such medicines.

For further detail concerning the Equipment checklist for Nepal trekking, just go through Equipment List for Trekking in Nepal

Mera Peak Climbing: FAQs

Where Mera Peak located?

Mera Peak, the highest trekking peak of Nepal nestled in the Mahalangur mountain range, Barun sub-section of the Himalayas administratively in the Makalu Barun National Park, Sagarmatha Zone, and Sankhuwasabha district at the elevation of 6461m/21190ft above the sea level. Situated at north-eastern Nepal Mera Peak coordinates 27°42′33″N 86°52′06″E.

How difficult is Mera Peak climb?

Elevated at 6461m (21190ft) above the sea surface, Mera Peak is one of the choicest choices for first-timers and novice climbers. Although previous alpine climbing experiences may be beneficial, it is not obligatory to climb Mera Peak.

The climb involves above 6000m sea level so one needs to be physically wellbeing and used to high-altitude trekking. Notwithstanding that this trek is a technical maneuver, it is physically demanding and strenuous. Thus if you are fit and agile with high elevated journeys beforehand, this trip is solely for you.

How much will I spend on the trek every day?

In case you book a package with us, you need not pay for accommodation, three meals a day, guide and porter, camping charge, flight cost, hotel cost in Kathmandu, etc. You need to pay only for personal expenses like beverages, drinks, extra snacks, hot showers, and electronic device charges, etc. For these USS$ 20-30 will be sufficient.

How can I stay connected throughout my journey?

In the Everest region, there is a sound connection to the mobile network. Get a local SIM card of either Nepal Telecom or Axiata (NCELL), and communicate easily. In the higher elevations, the cell phone network may get erratic at times. However, in most places, the network is excellent enough for internet use and video calls. Purchase the best available data pack and enjoy internet services. In emergencies, our climbing guide carries a satellite phone.

Which one is tougher? Mera Peak vs. Island Peak.

Although Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, the route up the hilltop is forthright and non-technical. Technically Island Peak is considered harder to climb than Mera Peak. The track up Island Peak is more technical and contains crevasses on ladders and using fixed rope to reach the top.

Climbers reach atop using ‘man-ropes’ (walking roped up), ice ax, and crampons. Next, Mera Peak is can be attempted by novice trekkers but Island Peak is more challenging and arduous for the new summiteers.

How will be the weather conditions for our Lukla Flight?

My friend, as you are up in the high mountainous part of Nepal, no one can predict the weather, let alone the Meteorological Forecasting Division. So we suggest you get ready for something unexpected.

Sometimes, due to the bad weather and heavy snowfall/precipitation, you will be stuck in Lukla for a couple of days. If it is a really bad day in terms of weather, the airlines will themselves cancel the flight and you might have to wait till the weather get clear.

Of course, flying in elevated lands is never easy. Even on sunny and clear days, if there is a strong wind blowing from the mountains, make it turbulence. However, the flight to Lukla is scenic with magnificent sceneries and leaves a really unforgettable experience.

Why contingency days are necessary while climbing Mera Peak?

Contingency days are crucial in high elevated treks/mountaineering. Due to the bad weather, the flights may get canceled, mountaineers may suffer from elevation sickness (if the symptoms of altitude sickness are seen, you should rest for the next 24-48 hours depending upon conditions), etc.

Next, you need to wait for the perfect weather to summit the peak. If they are not favorable, you need to wait until they become favorable. Thus contingency days while ascending any high elevated treks or climbs are essential.

Do you provide trekking gear and equipment for this trek?

We provide you a sleeping bag, a down jacket, a duffle bag, and a t-shirt but you need to organize the rest of the gears and equipment. We can recommend you to the best stores where you can buy or hire the needed accessories.

What about drinking water during the trek/climb? Is it safe to drink?

During the trek, teahouses offer you filtered or boiled water for a small price. You either can buy bottled water but it is not highly recommended. We highly discourage the use of plastic bottles on the trail as it makes an adverse effect on nature.

You can carry water purification tablets/system and a reusable water bottle and fill it up with drinking water, purify it and make safe to drink. While climbing, your cook will boil water for you. You can fill your thermos with boiled water and use it later.  

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